
Beth and I did something for the first-time last month. We took a trip to Europe with a group of people where we were all on a bus going from location to location, packing up each time we changed hotels. We have been big fans of River Cruises, using Viking, where we get on the boat and unpack and don’t have to pack up again until the cruise is over. We generally arrive a day or two early so are in a hotel then and sometimes we stay a few extra days so are again in a hotel but three changes maximum. This was our first experience with this kind of inland tour using a bus the entire way with a small group of people together for two weeks. It ended up being one of the best trips we have ever taken.


This was a wine tasting tour of Northern Spain led by a very knowledgeable wine importer, Howard Friedman. Our other three trips to Spain had all been to the Mediterranean side of Spain, one to Seville, Granada and Marbella, and two to Barcelona, one of our favorite cities in the world. I learned more about wine in the 15 days of this trip than from any other trip or wine related activity than I have ever been part of! We visited 11 different wineries in the middle of the harvest the harvest and because of Howard’s relationship with the winemakers, we got much more than the standard tour and tasting at all but one of them. We got to walk the vineyards and taste grapes about to be harvested with the winemaker showing us some of his oldest vines and some ones just mature enough to produce grapes for his wine so we could taste the difference from the old vine grapes. We got to see the grapes go through the crusher for red wines and the press for white wines and taste the juice right out of the crusher or the press. We then barrel tasted the juices early in the fermentation process, 2-5 days in the tanks, and learned how long they leave the skins in with the juice and how often they punch down the tanks to keep the skins in contact with the juice. One of the winemakers uses only gravity to move the wine through the process because he does not like what pumping it through a hose does to the taste. Others have different things they do in the production process to get the flavor they want in their wines. We then had a tasting of their wines, generally at least 4 different wines each time and in one case 8 wines. On a few occasions we were served a delicious lunch to show how their wines complemented different foods. In other cases, we were offered platters of cheese, Iberian Ham, and slices of sausages along with the wines. We also had lunch at two Michelin One Star restaurants with great wine each time. We were only in a hotel for one night the first night of the trip. We were in two hotels for three nights and the rest for two nights. The hotels were very high quality and a lot of thought went into the best locations for us to stay at.
This trip was so interesting that I am doing a summary of it here and, over the next few weeks, will add a post for each day of the trip with lots of pictures. At each of the wineries our trip through their production process was different so I will get into a little more detail in the write up of each day. Beth and I took over 3,600 pictures on this trip, but I will only post a few of each day’s events, along with pictures of the labels of the wines that we tasted.
I want to acknowledge two people who made this trip such a special experience and highly recommend both of them for any interest you have in Spain in general and wine in particular.

Howard Friedman put the trip together and was the group leader. Howard has had a long and excellent career in the wine industry and for many years worked the floor at Calvert Woodley. He became their internal expert on Spanish wine and in that capacity traveled to Spain to learn the many wines they have and who are the best producers. Based on the relationships that he made, he left Calvert Woodley and became an importer of Spanish wines for the mid-Atlantic area and developed some very strong relationships with the winemakers that he was working with. He took the first group to Spain 12 years ago and everybody had such a good time he was doing it every year until COVID forced a two year halt. This year he was able to do it again, and this was his 10th time taking a group of 20-25 people for two weeks across northern Spain for wine tasting. Perhaps a good indication of how enjoyable people found those trips is that two of the people on our trip had been on one of Howard’s previous trips, one of them on the very first one. Howard is now semi-retired, but he is planning on continuing these trips for at least a few years and is already at work for next year’s trip. If you want to really learn about Spanish wines, discover a few grapes that you have not been familiar with, enjoy great Spanish food, and see some great historic sites across northern Spain, reach out to Howard and get on his mailing list so you can get the details on next year’s trip and decide if you want to sign up. Beth and I highly recommend it. Howard can be reached at hfriedo@verizon.net. Please let him know that I referred you.

Antonio Santiago Abastas was our Guide for this trip. Antonio has been the guide for all 10 of Howard’s trips and they have a great partnership. For each of the locations that we visited he gave us the history, interesting places to visit in our free time, and restaurant recommendations. He also had local guides that gave us guided tours to several interesting locations including the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. He was fantastic at helping any of with individual questions or issues that we had. Antonio lives in Madrid and is self-employed. He does a number of 1 or 2 day wine tasting trips to La Rioja and Ribera Del Duero and if your travel takes to you Madrid, I strong suggest that you consider spending a day or two with Antonio as your guide. He can be reached at antoniante@hotmail.com, but he worked every day in September with no days off so he is in demand so the earlier you set something up with him, the better chance you will have to enjoy some time with him.

I will close this post with the above map and a short summary of the itinerary of our trip to whet your appetite for the daily write ups with more details on each location.
- Saturday Sept 17 – Beth and I flew over to Madrid a day early and stayed at the Marriott Aloft in downtown Madrid.
- Sunday Sept 18 – We met Howard and Antonio, and many of the rest of the group, at the Madrid airport for a short hop to Santiago Del Compostela. Howard had a bus waiting to take us to our hotel and Antonio suggested some things to do and places to eat in the balance of the day that was free time. We were only in that hotel one night.
- Monday Sept 19 – Our bags were picked up outside our room while we had a delicious breakfast at the hotel. All breakfasts were included in the tour package that we purchased, and bags were picked up from our room and delivered to our room at every stop with all gratuities prepaid. Antonio had a local guide that walked us through the Cathedral We were scheduled to visit our first winery that afternoon but just a week before the trip started the vineyard told Howard that they had serious drought issues and could not support a visit and tasting. Howard was able to substitute in a fantastic seafood luncheon in the two on Vigo and then we went to Baiona and the lovely Parador hotel there for two nights.
- Tuesday Sept 20 – We took a short ride to one of the large baixas, or bays, on the Atlantic coast where they have hundreds of barges where they grow mussels, scallops, and oysters. We had a Albariño white wine on the boat and then went to a sommelier guided tasting and luncheon at a 1 star Michelin restaurant. Back at the Parador we had a very nice private tasting of three white wines followed by dinner together. I was a big fan of two Spanish white wines, Rueda and Albariño, before the trip and I quickly became a fan of two others that are pretty available in the US and exposure to several others that appear to be less available in the US. Details in the daily write ups.
- Wednesday Sept 21 – We left the Parador and stopped at Bodegas Do Campo and then we moved to a local inn where we had a delicious lunch paired with four different wines from the vineyard we had just visited. We then went to the town of Leon and checked into the Conde de Luna hotel
- Thursday Sept 22 – We started the morning with a short visit to the lovely Cathederal in Leon and really wished we had more time there. We then went to Casar de Burbia vineyard in Carradedelo where we had a tour and tasting. We went to the Venecia Restaurant which specializes in steaks from around the world for lunch.
- Friday Sept 23 – In the morning we visited a winery that makes hard cider. I am a fan of English hard cider from the keg and this cider was too light for my taste but interesting to explore. We stopped for lunch in the little town of Santillana Del Mar and went from there to Bilbao where we stayed for three nights in the Gran Silken Hotel across the street from the Guggenheim Museum. We took advantage of the 3 day stay in Bilbao to have our laundry done at the hotel.
- Saturday Sept 24 – we had a great guided tour of the Guggenheim and then lunch at Nerua, the Michelin 1 Star restaurant that is in the Museum complex. We were VERY impressed by the Guggenheim and it is worth going up to Bilbao just for that experience.
- Sunday Sept 25 – We went to Bodega Katxina in the Getarika sub-region of Txakoli. One week into the trip we could even start to pronounce some of the place names and grape names. We had a long, leisurely lunch here with way too much delicious Basque food.
- Monday Sept 26 – We left Bilbao and traveled to San Sabastian, a beautiful resort town on the Atlantic. There we had a fun cooking class where we made four different tapas and we then had a full Spanish lunch with lots of wine. We stayed in Los Agustinos in Haro, an old rectory converted into a nice hotel.
- Tuesday Sept 27 – we went to the La Rioja region for a visit at Bodega Nivarius, one of the Placios, Vina De Fina wineries along with Trus and Proelio. We really enjoyed the white wine made at Nivarius as well as the red wines from Trus and Proelio making this one of my two favorite tastings on this trip. We then went to CUNE, one of the largest wineries in Spain and were given their standard tour and tasted two OK wines. After the very personal attention we had gotten at the other wineries where Howard had represented them, it was a big change to just be part of the machine.
- Wednesday Sept 28 – We went to Bodegas Valduero in the Ribera Del Duero region for a fantastic tour. The long Spanish style lunch was delicious and none of felt the need for any more wine at the end. Valduero was the consensus favorite of the wineries that we visited. We spent the next two nights in the Palacio De Merced in Burgos.
- Thursday Sept 29 – After breakfast we went to the Pedrosa de Duero and tasted their great Ribera Del Duero red wines and also a white wine from a vineyard that they bought growing the Godello grape. Their wines are consistently highly rated by Wine Spectator. We than had a free afternoon to walk around Burgos.
- Friday Sept 30 – After breakfast we went to Javier Sanz in the Rueda region. This was our final winery visit and when they also served us a variation of the Verdejo grape, the Malcorta, so we tasted two very different styles of Rueda wine, we knew we want to have both in our cellar so they are on the wish list that I am working with Howard. We then went to the Wellington Hotel in Madrid where we said goodbye to our bus and the great driver we had, Ramon, and enjoyed three days in Madrid.
- Saturday Oct 1 – We had planned to take the train down to Toledo for a day trip but when we unpacked at the Wellington Friday night we decided that were just exhausted from all the travel and eating and drinking so much so we had a very easy day on Saturday.
- Sunday Oct 2 – Beth found a package where we could have a 90 minute guided to the Prado Museum and then go to the restaurant were we would get a tour of the kitchen of the oldest restaurant in the world that specializes in suckling pig.
- Sunday Oct 3 – We checked out of the Wellington but left our bags there and had a final day of sight seeing. Howard’s trip ended that morning but we decided to stay another day and fly home on an early flight on the 4th.

It was a great trip and we are so glad that we did it. We really enjoyed the other people on the trip and formed some friendships that we hope will carry on. We learned a great deal about Spanish food, history, and culture along with find many new wines that we will be adding to our cellar. We have to drink a lot to make room for them.
You can download A PDF of the map with some notes on each day’s activities here.
If you have questions about this trip, please leave then in Comments.






















































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